In December 1976, the sleepy city of Korsakov, on the southern-most tip of Sakhalin island, witnessed a picture that few if any Soviet cities outside Moscow or Leningrad would see in the days of Brezhnev. It was the sight of a real, open anti-government demonstration, albeit small. A group of Koreans – actually, members of few extended families – gathered in front of the local party committee. Their demand was simple: They wanted to be allowed to return to their homeland, South Korea, from which they – or rather elder members of the families – had come in the 1930s