MOUNT KUMGANG – Some nine miles north of Korea’s demilitarized zone, a menu hanging on a coffee shop’s wall offers regular coffee for $2, ice cream and a sandwich each for $3 and fresh fruit juice for $4. Although the coffee machine and counter are well-maintained, no one is here to serve these items. Instead the owner, who just rented the space not long ago, said she serves Peking duck. A few steps away, the sign of the convenience store Family Mart is painted over and its glass wall is covered with black plastic bags.

Stores closed, welcome center shut